Edinburgh

This unassuming Leith address is where Irvine Welsh wrote Trainspotting. The author recommends it particularly for fans of the writer.

A relatively easy hike of around 30 minutes rewards you with sweeping views over Edinburgh and its surroundings. Bring a coat, as the summit can be windy.

Good to knowSet out early enough to reach the summit for sunrise.

This lively whisky and rock bar is a local favourite for performances by emerging artists. Expect an energetic, sometimes messy atmosphere when bands play.

Good to knowCheck the listings ahead, as some popular performances are ticketed.

A historic pub with beautiful stained glass and an understated atmosphere. Order a single malt whisky or a pint of cask ale while admiring the interior.

A popular local haunt for cask ales and artisan ciders sourced from across the UK. There is also an extensive cocktail list.

This 15th-century castle stands beside the Firth of Forth, around 35 minutes from central Edinburgh. Climb its towers for impressive views of the surrounding area.

An easier alternative to Arthur’s Seat with excellent city views, particularly at sunset. It is a lovely place to sit and take in Edinburgh.

Enjoy outstanding views down the Royal Mile alongside optical illusions and mirrors. The author especially recommends it for families with younger children.

The esplanade outside Edinburgh Castle provides stunning city views from its elevated position on Castle Rock.

Good to knowThe esplanade views are free; entering the castle requires a ticket.

William Henry Miller’s mausoleum is an unexpected artistic discovery on Craigentinny Crescent, distinguished by its intricately carved stonework.

Tucked away off the busy Royal Mile, this secluded garden is laid out in seventeenth-century style and makes a lovely quiet retreat.

Good to knowFind the entrance down Dunbar’s Close beside Canongate Kirk.

Explore this striking hilltop castle with a guided visit to understand its history and see the Great Hall. Listen for the one o’clock gun, fired every day except Sunday.

Good to knowListen for the 1 pm cannon, which the article notes does not fire on Sundays.

Visit this central theatre to catch Scottish Ballet or Scottish Opera. Its history includes a fire and a reputed haunting by illusionist The Great Lafayette.

A particularly beautiful hotel praised for its striking interiors and lovely roof terrace.

This historic marketplace combines a lively pub scene with a fascinating past as a livestock market and public execution site. The author considers it an essential Edinburgh stop.

Look for the statue commemorating the terrier said to have guarded his owner’s grave for 14 years. It is a charming stop for discovering local history.

The author recommends this gorgeous hotel for a luxurious Edinburgh stay.

The castle’s expansive gardens were a favourite summer picnic spot for the author.

Good to knowBring a picnic in summer; reach the castle by car or public transport.

The author recommends this waterfront neighbourhood for a Friday evening of drinks and dinner.

Good to knowGo for a walk on a sunny afternoon.

This nearly ten-metre-high artistic clock resembles a medieval cathedral. Its intricate sections and details reward a close look.

Good to knowSpend time watching the clock to notice its changing details.

The neoclassical gallery complex on The Mound pairs impressive architecture with works by artists including Titian, Raphael, Vermeer, Monet and Turner.

Good to knowGeneral entry is free; dedicated exhibitions may cost extra.

One of the author’s favourite places to revisit in Edinburgh. Highlights include dinosaurs and meteorites, the Grand Gallery and the World Cultures Gallery.

Good to knowSeek out the roof-terrace doorway; it can be difficult to find.

Wander the long, straight streets to admire Georgian architecture that contrasts with the older city. Its 18th-century layout forms part of Edinburgh’s UNESCO-listed heritage.

Explore cobbled streets, historic houses and picturesque squares in this atmospheric part of Edinburgh. The author considers its Harry Potter-like setting unmissable.

Explore Scotland’s royal residence for a glimpse of royal life, including the chambers occupied by Mary, Queen of Scots. The author advises booking tickets ahead.

Head to this lovely New Town cocktail bar for drinks in a speakeasy-style setting.

These picturesque gardens offer an appealing stop while exploring the New Town. Their pleasant appearance contrasts with the site's past as a polluted loch.

The author recommends this Charlotte Square hotel as another attractive place to stay in Edinburgh’s New Town.

A peaceful place for a restorative stroll, this renowned scientific garden houses some exceptionally rare plants.

Good to knowGarden entry is free, but the glasshouses and some exhibitions carry a charge.

Walk between Edinburgh Castle and Holyrood Palace to see some of the city’s oldest buildings. This is one of the author’s favourite ways to appreciate Edinburgh’s history.

Good to knowWalk downhill for an easier stroll.

Set on Blackford Hill away from the main tourist sights, the observatory offers impressive city views and excellent photography opportunities.

Board the former royal yacht at Leith’s Ocean Terminal to explore its interiors. You can also stop for tea on the Royal Deck.

Climb for spectacular views toward the castle and across Edinburgh’s contrasting Old and New Towns. The staircase is narrow, so the author cautions against it for claustrophobic visitors.

A recommended stop for art lovers, with Scottish art, surrealist works and Artist Rooms highlighted by the author. It also makes a useful rainy-day visit.

Beyond the main exhibition spaces, the gallery’s upper section rewards exploration with statues and masks of notable Scottish figures.

Good to knowExplore the upper part of the gallery rather than stopping at the main exhibitions.

The author recommends including this cathedral while exploring the historic sights of the Old Town.

A well-preserved Edwardian pub offering a taste of Edinburgh’s historic character. Explore the extensive whisky selection chalked onto the bar walls.

Good to knowStop in for a relaxed drink before dinner.

An iconic luxury hotel beside Waverley Station, with a lovely spa. The author particularly recommends a castle-facing suite for views across historic Edinburgh.

This upscale, old-fashioned bar is full of Scottish character, with curiosities covering its walls and ceilings. The author also praises its Burns Night supper.

Good to knowLook out for its Burns Night supper around January.

Join a guided chocolate tour with tastings and the chance to mould your own bar. Wine and whisky pairings are also available, making this a tempting indoor activity on rainy days.

Skilled mixologists serve cocktails with a Scottish twist in this spot between Princes Street and the Royal Mile. Try the Foragers Club Cocktail alongside a late lunch.

Good to knowVisit for a late lunch and cocktails after sightseeing.

Set in a former bank, this striking bar features a huge dome, chandeliers and an extensive drinks selection. Its afternoon tea and cocktails are worth the somewhat higher prices.

Good to knowVisit around lunchtime for afternoon tea and cocktails.

Discover how wealthy Edinburgh residents lived in the 18th and early 19th centuries. Period furniture, porcelain, silver, art and chandeliers bring the interiors to life.

This intimate Lothian Road bar is recommended for its beer selection and cool atmosphere. The author also praises its Scottish-distilled gin.

A favourite spot for a relaxed picnic on a sunny Sunday, close to the university buildings. It also provides a pleasant connection between the centre and the Southside.

Good to knowVisit on a sunny Sunday afternoon.

Take a guided tour through centuries-old streets and spaces hidden beneath the Royal Mile. The author describes the experience as fascinating and eerie.

Learn about Scotch whisky and taste excellent malts from across Scotland. The author recommends it as a good introduction for anyone who has yet to try the spirit.

Ornate gold-leaf walls and Chesterfield sofas make this bar, restaurant and music venue especially atmospheric. The author recommends the Curious Cucumber Party cocktail.

Good to knowVisit on a weekend for live music and book a table ahead.

One of the author’s favourite restaurants, praised for excellent meals made with local Scottish ingredients.

A beautiful restaurant serving seasonal cooking, with a menu that changes weekly. The author especially praises the tasting menu.

A trendy, compact cocktail bar with delicious drinks and plenty of dancing. The author recommends it as a fun starting point for a night out.

The author highlights the Union Canal as another waterway to discover while exploring the less-visited Water of Leith area.

Stroll down this picturesque Old Town street toward the Grassmarket, stopping at local boutiques and restaurants.

A Royal Mile seafood restaurant the author has repeatedly enjoyed over the years. Expect delicious food and notably fresh fish.