Agra

Allow about two hours for the ornate sandstone and marble buildings of this former Mughal residence. The fort also offers another perspective on the Taj Mahal across the river.

Head to the mosque on the Taj Mahal's left-hand side for a striking view with the rising sun behind the monument.

Visit these Mughal gardens at sunset for memorable views across the Yamuna River to the Taj Mahal.

Stop at this cafe run by acid attack survivors, which provides employment and builds confidence. The author found meeting the women deeply moving and uplifting.

Arrive around 5:30 am to enjoy quieter grounds and watch the marble change colour as the sun rises. Take time to wander the gardens before the crowds build.

A quieter alternative to the Taj Mahal with beautiful craftsmanship and gardens. Allow at least an hour to appreciate its intricate details.